Clothing Glossary for the Middle East
and the Maghrib
The following are clothing related terms from the sources I used to create this section on Middle Eastern dress. Where possible multiple references have been consolidated.
It is possible that the same word can refer to different items in different regions or time periods (think of the differences in meaning between British and American English). It is also possible that the sources got things wrong.
A . B . C . D . E . F . G . H . I . J . K . L . M . N . O . P . Q . R . S . T . U . V . W . X . Y . Z . references
The terms are transliterated (from Arabic, Farsi, Turkish and Berber languages) and little attempt has been made to standardize them (unless the original Arabic is known to check them against). As a result the short vowels have been transliterated differently by different authors. Some words are also transliterated as heard - often within a specific dialect.
If the word you are interested in is not listed try the following:
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A | A . B . C . D . E . F . G . H . I . J . K . L . M . N . O . P . Q . R . S . T . U . V . W . X . Y . Z . ref |
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aba |
long rectangular cloak or mantle with square set sleeves Tilke secured with a hijam Britannica worn by people of rank as opposed to the peasant's shorter coat Eid (see mashla) sleeveless coat - women may pull over their heads National Geographic also used as a blanket Anawalt |
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abaaya, abayeh, abaya |
Same as gallibaya (Lebanon) Eid Otherwise see aba. Tilke, Britannica, Parker, Kennet, Anawalt, Wehr |
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Afghan burqa | veil which covers the whole of a woman's body including the eyes which are covered with a mesh screen Al-Muhajabah
Sometimes (incorrectly) called a chador |
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agal Britannica | Arabia | same as ogal |
aigrette | Turkey | plumes adorning turban Britannica |
akhnif | Morocco | early form of burnous - semicircular cloak with a hood Parker |
anteri | Ottoman | woman's long gown Britannica |
`araqiyeh Weir | Palestine | see taqiyeh |
asayib | Emirates | circlet for burga Kennet |
`asbeh | Palestine | a woman's rolled and folded headband worn over a hattah or zurband Weir |
asyut, assiut, asuit | Egypt, Levant | see tulle bi telli |
awra | that part of the body that should be hidden from all but a person's spouse; for men, navel to knee; for women, upper chest to knee Al-Muhajabah | |
B | A . B . C . D . E . F . G . H . I . J . K . L . M . N . O . P . Q . R . S . T . U . V . W . X . Y . Z . ref |
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bedleh | literally "suit" or "uniform" used to describe the belly dance costume of bra, belt and skirt | |
begha | Tunisia | shoes Tilke |
binish | Egypt, Arabia, Syria, Asia Minor, and Turkey | front opening coat with wide sleeves of scholars and priests worn over the kaftan Tilke |
bisht Parker | Arabia | men's (dressy) cloak |
boushiya | women's sheer veil tied onto the forehead with no eye holes Al-Muhajabah | |
buknuk | women's circular veil with hole for the face and falling to the bosom ie a short khimar Al-Muhajabah | |
burnoose, burnous | maghrib |
unisex semi-circular wrapped cloak with tasselled hood and embroidery Tilke worn by the wealthy - (cf selham). Men only wear hood in bad weather. Women use hood as veil. The hood is also used to hold stuff - like a pocket. Parker |
bur'a | Egypt | women's long narrow face veil ie an Egyptian burqa |
burga Kennet burqa Parker |
1: women's face veil - sometimes held in place with asayib Kennet
2: Also sometimes refers to a full body cover - see Afghan burqa |
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bzima Parker | maghrib | see fibula |
C | A . B . C . D . E . F . G . H . I . J . K . L . M . N . O . P . Q . R . S . T . U . V . W . X . Y . Z . ref |
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carsaf Britannica | see chador | |
caftan Britannica | see kaftan | |
chador, chadar | women's enveloping garment/cloak Britannica
Sometimes incorrectly used to refer to a cloak which covers the eyes with a mesh panel - see Afghan burqa |
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chadri Britannica | see chador | |
chalvar, chalwar Britannica, Parker | India, Africa | see shalvar |
checheya Raafat | Turkey | see tarbush |
D | A . B . C . D . E . F . G . H . I . J . K . L . M . N . O . P . Q . R . S . T . U . V . W . X . Y . Z . ref |
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darrah | Kuwait | dress |
darrah zerri | Kuwait | see thobe al-na`ish |
dfina,dfinna Morocco, Eriksen | Morocco | Women's overcoat or kaftan |
dishdasha dishdashah Anawalt |
Algerian | long shirt like garment.
Similar to Tunisian jellabah, Syrian jubbeh, Egyptian gallibaya Britannica Anawalt also links it to Oman |
dislik | Ottoman | drawers tied at waist Britannica |
djebba | maghrib | square, pullover tunic worn by men - also see gamis. Also known as jebba. Tilke, Parker |
djebba habayah | Algeria | tunic underclothing Tilke |
djellabia djellaba |
Morocco | hooded outer robe Tilke |
djubbeh | Ottoman | front opening coat with complicated cut and narrow sleeves worn over the kaftan Tilke |
dulband | Iran | Persian for turban Britannica, Sanders |
dura`ah | Palestine | Women's plain short sleeved front opening coat worn as the main body garment in the north (around Nazareth & Galilee) Also see jillayeh Weir |
E | A . B . C . D . E . F . G . H . I . J . K . L . M . N . O . P . Q . R . S . T . U . V . W . X . Y . Z . ref |
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egal Britannica | Arabia | same as ogal |
elbas | Palestine | see shalvar Weir |
entari | Turkey | see kaftan Tilke |
eri | Egypt | man's woolen shirt Tilke |
F | A . B . C . D . E . F . G . H . I . J . K . L . M . N . O . P . Q . R . S . T . U . V . W . X . Y . Z . ref |
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faltita | Morocco | woman's full skirt - worn over draped rectangular garments worn over sleeved shift Parker |
fanilla | Oman | men's sash Kennet |
farasia Tilke | Morocco |
long shirt like garment with wide sleeves and buttoned over chest - often belted and made from light fabric. Also known as a kaftan Tilke |
farwah | Arabia | thick sheep wool overcoat (rural Southern Arabia and highlands) Kennet |
fez | Maghrib | see tarbush |
fibula Parker | pins used to hold back and front rectangles of melia together at shoulder. (Called bzima in maghrib) | |
firmia | Algeria, Tunisia | vest also known as sedria or ssedria Tilke |
fouta | Algeria | striped loin cloth (see futah) Tafsout |
futah | Yemen | unisex wrap around calf length skirt Anawalt |
futtan | Palestine | women's dress from Damascus decorated with silver and gold thread National Geographic |
G | A . B . C . D . E . F . G . H . I . J . K . L . M . N . O . P . Q . R . S . T . U . V . W . X . Y . Z . ref |
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galabia, gallibaya, gallabiya | Egypt Bedouin Parker |
long shirt like garment Tilke full length with wide long sleeves; skirt may be slit up sides; some styles open at front. similar to Tunisian jellabah, Syrian jubbeh, Algerian dishdasha Britannica |
gamis, gamisa | Morocco & maghrib |
djebba with sleeves. Also known as kamis - from kumm (sleeve), kamma to provide with sleeves Tilke |
gandura Tilke | Tunisia | men's short full sleeveless over garment |
gasabia | Tunisia | narrow version of a burnoose worn by the working class. Also known as kasabia Tilke |
gedjalyk | Caucasus | jacket Tilke |
ghandoura Parker | Morocco | see gandura |
ghlila | Tunisia | jacket Tilke |
ghoutra ghutra Wehr |
rectangular cloth worn over the skullcap as a head dress Kennet usually white, sometimes checked in red and white or black and white Also known as a kefijeh - although some sources use this to refer to the skullcap. |
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ghudfeh | Palestine | women's festive embroidered veils - similar to khirqah or tarbi`ahWeir |
gibbeh Tilke | Egypt | see djubbeh |
görnlek | Ottoman | women's knee length sleeved chemise Britannica |
gumbaz | Lebanon | crossed dress slit up front worn by people of rank; women's also slitted on sides Eid |
H | A . B . C . D . E . F . G . H . I . J . K . L . M . N . O . P . Q . R . S . T . U . V . W . X . Y . Z . ref |
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habayah | Algeria | also known as djebba Tilke |
handira Parker | Morocco (Berber) | rectangular blanket like shawl |
harem pants | see pantaloons | |
hatta National Geographic hattah Weir |
Bedouin Palestine |
a scarf - roughly square worn as either a headscarf or a baggish head covering by unmarried women or folded like a band - `asbeh - by married women. men as well Weir |
haik | maghrib | (urban) women's sheer draped over garment Parker rectangle about 6m x 2m Britannica |
hijab | generally a Muslim women's modest dress or more specifically either any headscarf (khimar) or a square of fabric folded into a triangle then placed over the head and fastened under the chin Al-Muhajabah | |
hijam | Iraq | sash or belt for aba; a cummerbund Britannica |
hizan | Egypt | sash or belt for kaftan Tilke |
I | A . B . C . D . E . F . G . H . I . J . K . L . M . N . O . P . Q . R . S . T . U . V . W . X . Y . Z . ref |
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igal, iqaal Britannica igaal Kennet `iqal Wehr |
Arabia |
(camel hair) corded band that holds the headwear (kufiya) in place. (Also the cord that hobbles a camel) Also transliterated agal, egal, ogal |
ihram Kennet | Arabic | Arabic for turban ie folded/wrapped head dress |
`imamah Britannica `imma Wehr imma Discover |
Arabic | Arabic for turban ie folded/wrapped head dress |
ikanaf Parker | Morocco | see akhnif |
izar Parker | Morocco-Syria | wrapped garment (length twice height of wearer) worn over dress with sleeves. Wrapping: once around as skirt held with sash then over the head |
J | A . B . C . D . E . F . G . H . I . J . K . L . M . N . O . P . Q . R . S . T . U . V . W . X . Y . Z . ref |
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jambiya | Oman | see khanjor |
jebba Parker | Morocco | see djebba |
jellabah | Tunisia | similar to Syrian jubbeh, Algerian dishdasha, Egyptian gallibaya Britannica |
jilbab | long coatlike outter garment Wehr | |
jillayeh | Palestine | Women's heavily ornamented body garement - either a short sleeved front opening coat in the north (around Nazareth & Galilee) or a dress in the south. Also see dura`ah Weir |
jubba Wehr jubbah Britannica jubbe Eid jubbeh Anawalt, Britannica |
Egypt Lebanon Palestine Syria |
unisex long coat open at front - sleeves can be long or short, narrow or wide Anawalt short sleeved coat for women in winter worn over gumbaz; front opening and light side slit Eid long wide sleeved gown (worn by `ulama) to feet buttoned half way down over stripped caftan Britannica similar to Tunisian jellabah, Algerian dishdasha, Egyptian gallibaya Britannica |
K | A . B . C . D . E . F . G . H . I . J . K . L . M . N . O . P . Q . R . S . T . U . V . W . X . Y . Z . ref |
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kaffiya kaffiyeh Britannica |
Arabia | see kufiya |
kaftan kuftan |
Morocco Egypt Tilke |
shirt-dress with wide sleeves buttoned over the chest worn with a sash (hizan) over vest, shirt and trousers Tilke open in front often bound by sash Britannica - based on Persian front opening coat (with exaggerated sleeves for ruling classes Parker unisex with ample cut Anawalt Tilke also refers to the farasia as a "kaftan" despite it only opening partially down the front. |
kalabia Tilke | Egypt | see galabia |
kalansuwa Sanders | Yeman | concial hat under the turban |
kamis | maghrib Egypt |
see gamis. Wide shirt worn by Fellahin Tilke from kumm (sleeve), kamma to provide with sleeves Tilke |
kandura Tilke | Tunisia | see gandura. |
kanis | Yemen | women's shirt Tilke |
kasabia Tilke | Tunisia | see gasabia. |
kefijeh Tilke | Arabia | see kufiya |
khaleegi thobe | Gulf States | see thobe al-na`ish ("khaleegi" means of the Gulf) |
khanja khanjor | Oman | men's curved knife also known as jambiya Anawalt (also see kumia) |
khimar |
women's head and face veil Wehr either how the Quran refers to a women's headscarf in general or specifically, a circular headcovering with a hole cut for the face reaching the waist (also see buknuk and chador) Al-Muhajabah |
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khirqah | Palestine | women's festive embroidered veils - similar to tarbi`ah or ghudfehWeir |
kibr National Geographic | Bedouin | striped overcoat open down front with belt and/or shoulder straps |
kofia Tilke | Arabia | see kefijeh. |
koubrane | Lebanon | men's embroidered bolero Eid |
kubb`ah Weir | Palestine | see libbadeh |
kumm | sleeve (pl. akmam, kimama). kamma (v) to provide with sleeves Wehr | |
kufeya Discover kufiya Wehr |
Arabia |
Either square cloth used as headwear (sometimes with tassels along edge) folded into a triangle and held in place by an `iqal
Tilke, Wehr (the cloth is also known as a ghoutra) or the underlying skullcap (taqiyah ) Anawalt Plural is keffiyeh Wehr |
kumia | Morocco | curved dagger - also see medshul Tilke |
kusak | Ottoman | (unisex) sash or belt Britannica |
kutiyah Anawalt | Arabia | skullcap - see kefijeh. |
L | A . B . C . D . E . F . G . H . I . J . K . L . M . N . O . P . Q . R . S . T . U . V . W . X . Y . Z . ref |
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laffeh | Palestine | stripped or checked turban with fringe worn over (and showing) tarbush Weir |
libbadeh | Palestine | felt cap worn by village men (also known as kubb`ah) Weir |
M | A . B . C . D . E . F . G . H . I . J . K . L . M . N . O . P . Q . R . S . T . U . V . W . X . Y . Z . ref |
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malas | Palestine | a satin hood worn by girls approaching marriageable age Weir |
mandil | Egypt |
women's headscarf often edged with pom-poms.
Here is how to make a mandil for dance. |
madas | Arabia | men's sandals. Also known as na`al Discover |
masar Keohane | Oman | men's (traditionally woollen Kashmiri) scarves wound like a turban. |
mashla Tilke | Syria |
overcoat like an aba, but tighter, shorter and with short sleeves, worn by men over their kaftan or women over their shirt Tilke Also see mishlah |
medshul | Morocco | woven woollen cords used to suspend weapons - also see kumia Tilke |
melaya luf milaya lef |
Egypt |
urban women's wrapped outer garment
used in performing a theatrical tableau |
melehfa Tafsout melia |
Algeria Tunisia |
unisex wrapped no sew garment wrapped left to right starting at back. First wrap plus pins with fibula and creates blouse; belted at waist. A gamis is worn underneath. Parker, Tafsout |
milfa | Arabia | half veil Kennet also see shambar |
mishlah Kennet | Arabia | see bisht Discover |
N | A . B . C . D . E . F . G . H . I . J . K . L . M . N . O . P . Q . R . S . T . U . V . W . X . Y . Z . ref |
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na`al Discover | Arabia | see madas |
neqleh | Palestine | the embroidered panel on a southern Palestinian village woman's shambar Weir |
niqam | a means of veiling a woman's face; "full niqab" - veil tied on the forehead with eyeholes "half niqab" - veil that covers only the lower face Al-Muhajabah |
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O | A . B . C . D . E . F . G . H . I . J . K . L . M . N . O . P . Q . R . S . T . U . V . W . X . Y . Z . ref |
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ogal Tilke | Arabia | see `iqal |
omasa | Arabia | bride's red thobe with sleeves & bodice with indian gold embroidery Kennet |
P | A . B . C . D . E . F . G . H . I . J . K . L . M . N . O . P . Q . R . S . T . U . V . W . X . Y . Z . ref |
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pantaloons | English term for common undergarments for men and women.
Generally they are very full at the waist and gathered by a drawstring. Variations include low crutch, high crutch and the Persian version which narrows from the knees. The distal end can be gathered or cuffed. Sometimes the length is very long and the ends are either gathered on the calf with excess fabric falling to the ankles or pleated vertically.
See potur, shalvar, shintijan, sorouelles
Here is how to make a Westernized version for dance. |
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phecy Raafat | Turkey | see tarbush |
potur | Egypt, Levant, Turkey | wide men's trousers with extension pieces cut like gaiters which can be fitted close to leg by buttoningTilke |
Q | A . B . C . D . E . F . G . H . I . J . K . L . M . N . O . P . Q . R . S . T . U . V . W . X . Y . Z . ref |
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qabbeh | Palestine | Embroidered chest panel for women's dress Weir |
qalansuwah Britannica qalansuwa Wehr |
Egypt |
collapisable cap of red felt under imamah with blue tassel Britannica tall headgear, hood, cap Wehr |
qalansiya Wehr | see qalansuwah | |
qashani | Iran | Kurdish robe Anawalt |
qashqai | Iran | Kurdish man's felt cap Anawalt |
qumbaz | Palestine | unisex ankle length cloak with right side held under left arm and worn in place of abayeh. Men's qumbaz has short or no side slit; women's has long side slits Anawalt |
qun`ah | Palestine | long, flowing black or blue veil of southern Bedouin women Weir |
qunbaz | Syria | men's long, sleeved open fronted garment Wehr |
R | A . B . C . D . E . F . G . H . I . J . K . L . M . N . O . P . Q . R . S . T . U . V . W . X . Y . Z . ref |
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redan National Geographic | Bedouin | worn by non-manual workers with kimono shaped sleeves to ground |
S | A . B . C . D . E . F . G . H . I . J . K . L . M . N . O . P . Q . R . S . T . U . V . W . X . Y . Z . ref |
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saffeh | Palestine | arch of silver and gold coins worn over the smadeh Weir |
salvar Britannica salwar Parker |
see shalvar | |
sarband Sanders | Iran | (also known as dulband) see turban |
sarik Sanders | Turkey | see turban |
sebleh | Egypt and the Levant | women's tob Tilke |
sedria | Maghrib, Egypt |
vest also known as firmia or ssedria
(buttoned version right worn under a kaftan) |
selham Parker sulham Tilke |
Morocco, Tunisia | men's very full sleeveless cloak with hood with silk pom poms (similar to burnoose) |
shaal Kennet | cloth used to create a turban | |
shalvar | Arabian Peninsula, Syria, Iran, India, Africa | (unisex) loose trousers (worn as under garment) Tilke 3m across waist; tied waist and ankle Britannica loose trousers - ankle length for princes and women, knee or calf for peasants Eid with low crutch (cf sorouelles); ends often decorated Parker Also known as chalvar, chalwar, salvar, salwar, shintijan, shintyan, shirwal In Turkey they are known as tshaivar Also see pantaloons |
shambar shinbar, shunbar |
Palestine | either a Bedouin women's veil in shape of a tube which fills the neck opening of the dress. Also called milfa` or a black festive veil from southern Palestine with an embroidered panel (naqleh), fringe and tassels Weir |
shas Kennet | Levant | see yashmak |
shash | Palestine | long, flowing white veil of southern village women Weir |
shatweh | Palestine | women's tarbush shaped headdress decorated with silver and gold coins from Bethlehem Weir |
shawal Kennet | Palestine | women's tunic dress - flared and panelled with cross stitch |
shemagh | see ghoutra | |
shintijan Tilke shintyan Parker |
Egypt & Levant Syria |
wide women's trousers tied at waist and below knee with the extra length falling to ankles. Also known as tshaivar in TurkeyTilke Also see pantaloons |
shirwal | Lebanon | see shalvar |
shirsh Parker | Syria | women's sleeved shift with generous fit obtained by triangular fill (instead of open seams) |
shishia | Morocco, Tunisia | cap - rounder in Tunisia, more pointed in Morocco Tilke |
shumagh | Arabia | see ghoutra |
sirwaal Parker, Kennet sirwal Weir |
Lebanon, Arabia Palestine |
see shalvar |
skullcap | see taqiyeh | |
smadeh | Palestine | women's bonnet decorated with silver and gold coins Weir |
ssedria | Algeria, Tunisia | vest also known as firmia Tilke |
sserual | Magreb and Egypt | trousers Tilke |
sub | Yemen | women's white pleated shirt Tilke [shirt not skirt - Kashmir] |
sorouelles | Turkey | pull on pants (under garment) wth a higher crutch than shalvar Parker |
sulham Tilke | Morocco, Tunisia | see selham |
T | A . B . C . D . E . F . G . H . I . J . K . L . M . N . O . P . Q . R . S . T . U . V . W . X . Y . Z . ref |
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tannur, tanoura | dervish skirt Britannica . Also the entertainment version of whirling wearing the skirts as seen in Egypt | |
tantour | Lebanon | cone shaped hearwear for women used to support veil Eid |
taqiyah taqiyeh Weir |
Arabia Palestine |
skullcap - worn by both sexes Discover, Weir |
taqshita, takchita Eriksen | Morocco | Traditional urban women's ensemble - dfina, kaftan, shalvar |
tarbi`ah | Palestine | women's festive embroidered veils - similar to khirqah or ghudfehWeir |
tarbouche | Lebanon | truncated cone to support a turban Eid see tarbush |
tarboosh Britannica Raafat |
Ottoman Egypt |
see tarbush Egypt 1820-1952 only |
tarbush | Syria Palestine |
hard cap of red felt under imamah Britannica tarbush maghribi - soft version with tassel on crown worn by village men in Palestine - pre 1930s Weir tarbush istambuli - hard version worn by Palestinian townsmen and upperclasses Weir From "sar" - head and "poosh" - cover. Raafat Also known as checheya, Fez and phecy |
tcharchaf Britannica | Ottoman | see chador |
thaub Wehr | see thobe | |
thawb Kennet, Discover | see thobe | |
thob Parker | Egypt (Syria) Bedouin |
garment worn over gallibaya very long dress with long triangular sleeves used for carrying stuff |
thob'ob Keohane | Bedouin | very long thob - up to 3m from shoulder to hem - the skirt of which has a fold ('ob) and tucked into the belt. That is a double dress.
Here is a photo of a thob'ob from 1937. And here is a clip of a women wrapping a tob'ob from the 1920s. |
thobe | general Arabic term for clothing, garment, dress or robe. Differing dialects pronounce the "th" as "t" or "s". Also see tob, thob, sub |
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thobe al-na`ish thobe el-neshel thobe nashaal |
Gulf States | an ornate women's robe used in the "hair tossing dance" Also known as darrah zerri (sequined dress) and thobe tawoose (peacock dress) Also see tob Here is how to make a version for stage. |
tob Tilke, National Geographic | Egypt and the Levant Bedouin |
1: Women's wide dress with ornamentation around neck and breast slit. Also know as sebleh. Tilke 2: Bedouin - men's long white ankle length garment worn under a kibr, or women's blue dress - decorated with light blue bands and/or seams National Geographic 3: Palestine - men's thobe narrower than Egyptian galibaya; women's thobe is loose, collarless, with embroidered yoke and sides plus girdle at waist Anawalt |
tshaivar | Turkey | straight trousers Tilke |
tshalvar Tilke | Turkey | see shintijan |
tshepks | Syria, Kurdistan | short under jackets Tilke |
tulle bi telli | Egypt, Levant | flax based net with metallic embroidery. Well known examples were made in Asyut, Egypt which let to it being known as "asyut" |
turban | long scarf wound over head or inner hat. Depending on country and social status wrapping style and length varies (can up to 45m long). Muslim versions have forehead bare so skin can touch ground when praying Britannica The cloth is known as shaal, the result imma or ihram. |
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W | A . B . C . D . E . F . G . H . I . J . K . L . M . N . O . P . Q . R . S . T . U . V . W . X . Y . Z . ref |
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wuqa, wuqayeh | Palestine | simple rectangular fabric bonnet sometimes with a few coins worn by women and girls approaching marriageable age Weir |
Y | A . B . C . D . E . F . G . H . I . J . K . L . M . N . O . P . Q . R . S . T . U . V . W . X . Y . Z . ref |
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yelek | Egypt | women's flowered kaftan open at the neck to the breast then fitted by buttons or laces to the belt; high side slits expose wide trousers Tilke women's waistcoat Britannica |
yashmak, yasmak | narrow face veil hanging from temples and sometimes supported on the nose Britannica | |
Z | A . B . C . D . E . F . G . H . I . J . K . L . M . N . O . P . Q . R . S . T . U . V . W . X . Y . Z . ref |
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zamliyeh | Palestine | striped headband worn by female guests in southern village wedding Weir |
zerri | Kuwait | sequin |
ziban | Arabia (esp Bedouin) | middle layer between thawb and bisht Kennet |
zurband | Palestine | a woman's long veil half worn over the head and then spilt and wrapped around the waist Weir |
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